Access is by temporary agreement, please note the arrangements on the BMC RAD. It’s notable that there are no barriers to access and the woods are well used by local walkers, horse riders and mountain bikers 7 days a week.
This area first came into the public eye in 1917 when two young cousins Elsie Wright and Frances Griffiths took a series of five photos depicting the mysterious Cottingley Fairies. Interest then gradually declined until the 1980’s when local climbers began whispering of a secret crag somewhere in the woods surrounding Bingley. Thankfully these rumours prove to be true- the woods provide some first rate problems and a few exciting looking projects.
Ruin Bank is predominantly technical highball bouldering of a vertical or slightly overhanging nature. Most of the top-outs require a brush before setting off due to the pine needles descending from the trees. Landings are all acceptable with a bouldering mat. A couple of problems may warrant an attentive spotter. Park Rocks varies in height and a mixture of bouldering and routes are likely to develop once the vegetation has been pared back. We’ve decided to document this on a separate document as it is likely to change regularly as problems are rediscovered and cleaned. In Spring 2021, a new area was cleaned at the far eastern end of the edge (best approached from Cottingley) – this is The Far East.
There are plans to update the coverage and unite the three guides into one, but it’s a big job!
Details can also be found on UKC and 27 Crags – these may differ from the descriptions here. We’d be happy to receive any updates or further information.